Chemical Complexity of Textiles Undermines Simple Natural‑Fiber Sustainability Claims

The article reviews research showing that a garment’s environmental impact depends more on its chemical processing than on whether the fibre is natural or synthetic. Cotton, wool, viscose and lyocell all appear in waterways and the atmosphere, not just polyester microplastics. The chemicals used in cultivation, dyeing, finishing and performance treatments influence degradation, release of pollutants and recyclability. This complexity hampers the creation of a truly circular textile system, because mixed fibres and finishes make sorting and high‑quality recycling difficult. To address this, governments and industry are moving toward digital product passports that record materials, repairability and chemical history, and certification schemes such as Oeko‑Tex and bluesign are gaining traction. These tools aim to improve transparency, enable safer recycling, and reduce textile waste.